What Is the Roring 20s and How Did It Affectg Mens Fashion in America From Before World War One

Clothing in the 1920s

Canadian Domicile Journal, 1920

Brazilian women salute Belgian monarchs on their arrival in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. 2 October 1920

A drawing picturing French women's way, c.1921

Lawn tennis player, Australia 1924

Western fashion in the 1920s underwent a modernization. For women, fashion had connected to change away from the extravagant and restrictive styles of the Victorian and Edwardian periods, and towards looser clothing which revealed more of the arms and legs, that had begun at least a decade prior with the rising of hemlines to the ankle and the motility from the Southward-bend corset to the columnar silhouette of the 1910s. Men also began to wear less formal daily attire and athletic clothing or 'Sportswear' became a part of mainstream fashion for the beginning time. The 1920s are characterized by two distinct periods of fashion: in the early part of the decade, change was slower, and in that location was more reluctance to wear the new, revealing popular styles. From 1925, the public more passionately embraced the styles now typically associated with the Roaring Twenties. These styles continued to characterize manner until the worldwide depression worsened in 1931.

Overview [edit]

After World War I, the United States entered a prosperous era and, equally a result of its role in the state of war, came out onto the world stage. Social customs and morals were relaxed in the optimism brought on by the end of the war and the booming of the stock market place. Women were entering the workforce in record numbers. In the United States, there was the enactment of the 18th Amendment, or as many know it, Prohibition, in 1920. Prohibition stated that it would exist illegal to sell and eat booze. This lasted until 1933, so it was a constant for the whole 1920s era. They instilled this "noble experiment" to reduce crime and corruption, solve social problems, reduce the tax burden created by prisons and poorhouses, and ameliorate health and hygiene. The nationwide prohibition on booze was ignored by many resulting in speakeasies. Some other important amendment in the The states was the 19th Subpoena, which gave women the right to vote. In that location was a revolution in almost every sphere of human activity. Fashion was no exception; women entered the workforce and earned the correct to vote, and they felt liberated. Fashion trends became more than accessible, masculine, and practical, creating the emergence of "The New Woman". Flappers was a pop name given to women of this time because of what they wore. The constrictive corset, an essential undergarment to make the waist thinner, became a thing of the by.^[i]

The evolution of new fabrics and new means of fastening wear affected fashions of the 1920s. Natural fabrics such as cotton and wool were the abundant fabrics of the decade. Silk was highly desired for its luxurious qualities, merely the limited supply fabricated it expensive. In the late 19th century, "bogus silk" was first fabricated in France, from a solution of cellulose. After existence patented in the United states of america, the first American plant began production of this new cloth, in 1910. This fiber became known as rayon. Rayon stockings became popular in the decade as a substitute for silk stockings. Rayon was also used in some undergarments. Many garments before the 1920s were attached with buttons and lacing. However, during this decade, the evolution of metal hooks and optics meant that there were easier means of fastening clothing. Hooks and optics, buttons, zippers, and snaps were all used to fasten clothing.

Vastly improved production methods enabled manufacturers to easily produce clothing affordable past working families. The average person'due south manner sense became more sophisticated. Meanwhile, working-class women looked for modern forms of clothes as they transitioned from rural to urban careers. Taking their cue from wealthier women, working women began wearing less expensive variations on the day suit, adopting a more modern look that seemed to conform their new, technologically focused careers as typists and telephone operators.^[2]

Although simple lines and minimal adornment reigned on the runways, the 1920s were not costless of luxury. Expensive fabrics, including silk, velvet, and satin were favored past high-end designers, while department stores carried less expensive variations on those designs made of newly available synthetic fabrics. The use of mannequins became widespread during the 1920s and served as a way to show shoppers how to combine and accessorize the new fashions. The modernistic mode cycle, established in the 1920s, withal dominates the industry today. Designers favored separates in new fabrics like jersey that could be mixed and matched for work and modern, informal, un-chaperoned social activities like attending films or the theater and car rides.^[2]

Women's article of clothing [edit]

Bellas Hess and Company advertise detail, 1920

By early on 1920s, most women not dared to bob their pilus, so they pinned upwardly to wait shorter. Mlle Cayet, Queen of Parisian Funfair, 1922

Between 1922 and 1923, the waistline dropped to the hips. The 1920s classic tubular fashion was born. Parisian fashion house Madeleine-et-Madeleine design, January, 1922.

Paris set the fashion trends for Europe and Northward America.^[3] The way for women was all almost letting loose. Women wore dresses all mean solar day, every twenty-four hours. Twenty-four hours dresses had a drib waist, which was a belt around the depression waist or hip and a brim that hung anywhere from the talocrural joint on up to the knee, never in a higher place. Daywear had sleeves (long to mid-bicep) and a skirt that was direct, pleated, hank hem, or tiered. Hair was oftentimes bobbed, giving a boyish look.^[4]

Clothing fashions changed with women's changing roles in society, specially with the idea of new fashion. Although society matrons of a certain age connected to wear bourgeois dresses, the sportswear worn past forward-looking and younger women became the greatest change in mail-war fashion. The tubular dresses of the 'teens had evolved into a similar silhouette that at present sported shorter skirts with pleats, gathers, or slits to allow motion. The most memorable fashion trend of the Roaring Twenties was undoubtedly "the flapper" expect. The flapper clothes was functional and flattened the bust line rather than accentuating it.^[1]

The straight-line chemise topped by the close-fitting cloche hat became the compatible of the day. Women "bobbed", or cut, their hair short to fit under the popular hats, a radical move in the get-go, merely standard past the finish of the decade. Low-waisted dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women to literally kick up their heels in new dances similar the Charleston. In 1925, "shift" type dresses with no waistline emerged. At the cease of the decade, dresses were being worn with directly bodices and collars. Tucks at the bottom of the bodices were popular, as well as knife-pleated skirts with a hem approximately one inch below the knee.^[v]

In the world of art, style was being influenced heavily by art movements such as surrealism. Elsa Schiaparelli is 1 key Italian designer of this decade who was heavily influenced by the "beyond the existent" fine art and incorporated information technology into her designs.

Proper attire for women was enforced for morning, afternoon, and evening activities. In the early role of the decade, wealthy women were still expected to change from a morning to an afternoon dress. These afternoon or "tea gowns" were less course-fitting than evening gowns, featured long, flowing sleeves, and were adorned with sashes, bows, or bogus flowers at the waist. For evening clothing the term "cocktail dress" was invented in France for American clientele. With the "New Woman" also came the "Drinking Woman". The cocktail dress was styled with a matching hat, gloves, and shoes. What was so unique about the cocktail dress was that it could exist worn not just at cocktail hours (6 and 8pm), just by manipulating and styling the accessories correctly could be worn accordingly for any event from 3 pm to the late evening. Evening gowns were typically slightly longer than tea gowns, in satin or velvet, and embellished with beads, rhinestones, or fringe.^[2]

Accessories [edit]

One of the central accessories in the 20s was the Cloche hat. "In 1926 Vogue stated 'The Bob Rules', just 9 years afterwards the influential dancer, Irene Castle, cut her hair. This trending topic inspired a 1920 short story by F. Scott Fitzgerald, chosen Bernice Bobs Her Pilus, and many editorials in Vogue throughout the decade."^[vi] The bob hairstyle matched perfectly with the loose and straight silhouette of the times. During this era Faddy gave credit to this new cut for the immense success of the lid business. New haircuts meant new styled hats, therefore there was a new craze for hats. The cloche hat and the bob were basically fabricated for each other.

Jewelry was less conspicuous.^[seven] Jewelry was much less elaborate, and began using 'romantic', more than natural shapes. The Art Nouveau motion of 1890-1910 inspired most of the natural forms and geometric shapes of the jewelry during the 1920s. "Aesthetic clean lines were inspired by designs establish in industrial machines. A cardinal influence of this modernism was the influential Bauhaus move, with its philosophy of class following function. Contrasting textures and colour were also in way. Examples of changing tastes in blueprint were the apply of diamonds beingness set against onyx or trans lucid vitrines and amethysts juxtaposed confronting opaque coral and jade."^[8] Even though geometric shapes and cleaner shaped jewelry were at present a tendency, one of the key pieces was the long rope pearl necklace. The long rope pearl necklace was a signature faux slice that was sold everywhere at the fourth dimension. It was inexpensive and bones in a woman's wardrobe. "Although buffeted by cycles of boom, depression and state of war, jewelry design betwixt the 1920s and 1950s continued to exist both innovative and glamorous. Sharp, geometric patterns historic the machine age, while exotic creations inspired past the Virtually and Far East hinted that jewelry fashions were truly international."^[ix]

Shoes were finally visible during the 1920s. Before, long garments covered up shoes, and so they weren't an of import role of women'southward fashion. Now, shoes were seen by everyone and played an important office during the 1920s. Women had all kinds of shoes for all kinds of events. Everything from house shoes, walking shoes, dancing shoes, sporting shoes, to swimming shoes. The shoe industry became an important industry that transformed the style we buy shoes today. Shoes were made in standard sizes perfect to order from fashion catalogs to the nearly boutique. In the beginning of the 1920s, Mary Janes were notwithstanding popular from previous era, although they paved the way for the invention of many other shoes. The T-strap heel was a variation of the Mary Jane, having the same base with the add-on of a strap going around the heel and down to the top of the shoe that looked like a T. Likewise, "The bar shoe which attached with a strap and a single button became popular during the 1920s. It was worn with the new short skirts and was practical for their vigorous style of dancing."^[10]

The influence of jazz [edit]

"The Jazz Age", a term coined past F. Scott Fitzgerald, was a phrase used to represent the mass popularity of jazz music during the 1920s.^[eleven] Both jazz music and dance marked the transition from the archaic societal values of the Victorian era to the arrival of a new youthful modernistic order. Jazz gained much of its popularity due to its perceived exoticism, from its Afro-American roots to its melodic and soulful rhythm. The music itself had quite an alluring issue on the new youthful society and was considered to be the pulse of the 1920s due to its spontaneity. With new music emerged new dancing. Jazz dances, such every bit the Charleston, replaced the slow flit. Paul Whitman popularized jazz dance. In fact, jazz music and dance are responsible for the origin of the iconic term "flapper", a group of new socially unconventional ladies. When dancers did the Charleston, the fast movement of the anxiety and swaying of the arms resembled the flapping movements of a bird.^[xi] Jazz music sparked the need to dance, and dance sparked the need for new wear, especially for women to easily dance without being constricted.

Dances such as the Charleston and the Black Bottom in item created a need for a revival in women'southward evening wear due to the dynamic and lively manner of these jazz dances. Dress and skirt hems became shorter in gild to permit the body to move more easily. In addition, decorative embellishments on dresses such as fringe threads swung and jingled in sync with the movement of the torso. Lastly, the employ of glossy and ornate textiles mirrored light to the tempo of jazz music and dance.^[12] Jazz music and its perceived exotic nature had both a flamboyant influence on fashion while keeping both form and role in mind.

Jazz and its influence on fashion reached even further, with both jazz and dance motifs making their way onto textiles. These new textile designs included uneven repetitions and linear geometric patterns. Many textile patterns produced in the Usa also incorporated images of both jazz bands and people dancing to jazz.^[13] The print Rhapsody shows a textile produced in 1925 representing a jazz ring in a polka-dot like manner.^[xiv] Not only did textiles take motifs of people dancing and playing jazz music, they included designs that were based on the overall rhythmic feel and sound of jazz music and dance.

The boyish figure [edit]

Undergarments began to transform afterward World State of war I to conform to the ethics of a flatter breast and more boyish figure. The female figure was liberated from the restrictive corset, and newly popular the boyish look was accomplished through the use of bust bodices. Some of the new pieces included chemises, sparse camisoles, and cami-knickers, afterwards shortened to panties or knickers. These were primarily made from rayon and came in soft, light colors in order to be worn under semi-transparent fabrics.^[fifteen] Immature flappers took to these styles of underwear due to the ability to move more than freely and the increased comfort when dancing to the high tempo jazz music. During the mid-1920s, all-in-one lingerie became pop.

For the showtime time in centuries, women's legs were seen with hemlines rising to the knee and dresses becoming more fitted. A more than masculine look became popular, including flattened breasts and hips, short hairstyles such as the bob cut, Eton crop, and the Marcel moving ridge. The fashion was seen as expressing a maverick and progressive outlook.

One of the starting time women to wear trousers, cut her hair brusk, and decline the corset was Coco Chanel. Probably the most influential woman in fashion of the 20th century, Chanel did much to further the emancipation and freedom of women'south style.

Jean Patou, a new designer on the French scene, began making 2-piece sweater and skirt outfits in luxurious wool jersey and had an instant hit for his morning dresses and sports suits. American women embraced the clothes of the designer equally perfect for their increasingly active lifestyles.

By the end of the 1920s, Elsa Schiaparelli stepped onto the stage to represent a younger generation. She combined the thought of classic pattern from the Greeks and Romans with the modern imperative for liberty of move. Schiaparelli wrote that the aboriginal Greeks "gave to their goddesses... the serenity of perfection and the fabulous appearance of freedom." Her own interpretation produced evening gowns of elegant simplicity. Departing from the chemise, her clothes returned to an sensation of the body beneath the evening gown.

Way gallery 1920–25

Summer sport accommodate, 1920.
Actress Elaine Hammerstein, 1921. The forehead was usually covered in the 1920s, hither by a hat reaching to the eyebrows.
Rolled stockings, 1922.
Robe de style, Lanvin, 1922.
Dress with a dropped waist and width at the hips, 1923.
Teenage girls in Minnesota wearing breeches and riding boots with men's neckties, 1924.
By 1925, skirts ended just below the knee. Tunic-tops and sweaters reaching to the hips were pop.

Style gallery 1926–29

Actress Aileen Pringle wearing a cloche lid and boldly patterned glaze, 1926.
Actress Alice Joyce in a straight dress with a sheer beaded overdress, 1926.
A painting showing the mid-decade silhouette at its simplest: languid pose, bobbed hair, knee-length dress with dropped waist, 1926.
Woman with Umbrella, Ipolit Strâmbu, 1927. Designers used multiple hemlines (hither, tiers of ruffles) to accustom the centre to longer skirts. This dress foreshadows the higher waist and feminine wait that spread to everyday mode by the early 1930s.
Woman hiding a hip flask tucked in her garter belt during Prohibition, late 1920s.
May 1928, abdomen and curves. After many years of a "stovepipe" silhouette, "natural" curves were beginning to reappear.^[16]
Knee-length, pleated skirts and dropped waists were still popular every bit everyday clothes in 1929, though Paris designers were already showing longer skirts and higher waistlines.
Bridesmaids gowns of 1929 accept human knee-length underskirts and longer, sheer over skirts, foreshadowing the tendency toward longer skirts. Minnesota, 1929.

Menswear [edit]

In menswear, there were two distinct periods in the 1920s. Throughout the decade, men wore short suit jackets, the old long jackets being used merely for formal occasions. In the early 1920s, men's manner was characterized by extremely loftier-waisted jackets, oft worn with belts. Lapels on arrange jackets were not very wide as they tended to be buttoned upwards high. This manner of jacket seems to have been profoundly influenced by the uniforms worn by the military machine during the First World War. Trousers were relatively narrow and straight and they were worn rather short so that a man'south socks often showed. Trousers as well began to exist worn cuffed at the bottom at this time.

By 1925, wider trousers unremarkably known equally Oxford bags came into way, while accommodate jackets returned to a normal waist and lapels became wider and were often worn peaked. Loose-plumbing equipment sleeves without a taper also began to exist worn during this period. During the belatedly 1920s, double-breasted vests, often worn with a single-breasted jacket, also became quite stylish. During the 1920s, men had a diversity of sport apparel available to them, including sweaters and brusque trousers (unremarkably known in American English as knickers). For formal occasions in the daytime, a forenoon arrange was unremarkably worn. For evening wear men preferred the short tuxedo to the tail coat, which was now seen as rather former-fashioned and bossy.

Men's fashion likewise became less regimented and formal. Men favored brusk jackets with two or three buttons rather than jackets with long tailcoats equally well every bit pinstriped suits. Coincidental-wearable for men oftentimes included knickers, brusque pants that came to the articulatio genus.^[1] The near formal men'southward suit consisted of a blackness or midnight-blueish worsted swallow-tailed coat trimmed with satin, and a pair of matching trousers, trimmed downwardly the sides with wide braid or satin ribbon.^[17] A white bow tie, black silk top hat, white gloves, patent leather Oxford shoes, a white silk handkerchief, and a white flower boutonnière completed the outfit. The tuxedo vest could be black or white, but, dissimilar the obligatory full-dress white tie, tuxedos ties were ever black. Men ordinarily completed their tuxedo outfit with even so accessories equally the full-clothes accommodate, except that instead of top hats they would vesture night, dome-shaped hats called bowlers. Only like women, men had certain attire that was worn for certain events. Tuxedos were appropriate attire at the theater, small dinner parties, entertaining in the home, and dining in a eating place. During the early on 1920s, near men'southward dress shirts had, instead of a collar, a narrow collar with a buttonhole in both the front and back. By the mid-1920s, however, many men preferred shirts with attached collars, which were softer and more than comfy than rigid, detachable collars.^[17]

Men's hats

Men's hats were usually worn depending on their class, with upper class citizens commonly wearing peak hats or a homburg hat. Middle-class men wore either a fedora, bowler hat, or a trilby hat. During the summertime months, a straw boater was popular for upper class and middle-course men. Working-grade men wore a standard newsboy cap or a flat cap.

Style gallery

Publisher Edward Beale McLean wearing a three-piece striped accommodate with a spread-neckband shirt, 1924.
German aviators, one a prince, 1929.

Fashion influences and trends [edit]

During the 1920s, the notion of keeping up with mode trends and expressing oneself through material goods seized middle-class Americans as never before. Purchasing new wearing apparel, new appliances, new automobiles, new annihilation indicated one'south level of prosperity. Being considered old-fashioned, out-of-engagement, or—worse yet—unable to afford fashionable new products was a fate many Americans went to smashing lengths to avoid.^[17]

For women, face up, effigy, coiffure, posture, and grooming had become important style factors in addition to clothing. In detail, cosmetics became a major industry. Women did not experience ashamed for caring about their advent and it was a annunciation of self-worth and vanity, hence why they no longer wanted to achieve a natural look. For evenings and events, the popular look was a smoky eye with long lashes, rosy cheeks and a assuming lip. To emphasize the eyes, Kohl eyeliner became popular, and was the showtime fourth dimension they knew anything of eyeliner (information about Egyptian fashion was non discovered until later on in the 1920s). Women besides started wearing foundation and using pressed pulverisation. Also, with the invention of the hinge lipstick, lipstick was on the rise with bright colors and they applied their lipstick to achieve a cupid'south bow and "bee stung" look.

Glamour was now an important fashion trend due to the influence of the movement picture industry and the famous female person movie stars. Style, at many social levels, was heavily influenced past the newly created, larger-than-life pic stars. For the first time in history, manner influences and trends were coming from more than one source.^[5] Not dissimilar today, women and men of the 1920s looked to movie stars as their fashion icons. Women and men wanted to emulate the styles of Hollywood stars such as Louise Brooks, Greta Garbo, Rudolph Valentino, and Clark Gable.^[ane]

Piece of work clothes [edit]

For working course women in the 1920s, tailored suits with a straight, curve less cutting were popular. Throughout the decade, the lengths of skirts were rise to the genu and and then to the ankle diverse times affecting the skirt style of tailored suits.^[18] Rayon, an artificial silk fabric, was most mutual for working-class women habiliment.^[xix]

For working-class men in the 1920s, suits were popular. Depending on the chore title and season of the year, the suit would modify.^[20] These would have featured high lapels and were oftentimes made of thick wool material before the advent of key heating.^[21]

Children'due south fashion [edit]

Fashion for children started to become more stylish and comfy in the 1920s. Clothes were fabricated out of cotton wool and wool rather than silk, lace, and velvet. Clothes were also made more sturdy in lodge to withstand play. During previous decades, many layers were worn; even so, during the 1920s, minimal layers became the new standard.^[22]

For girls, clothing became looser and shorter. Dresses and skirts were now knee length and loose fitting. Shoes were also made out of canvas, making them lighter and easier to article of clothing.^[22]

For boys, genu-length trousers were worn all twelvemonth long and would be accompanied by talocrural joint socks and canvas shoes. Pullovers and cardigans were also worn when the weather became cooler.^[22]

Roller-skater, Mississippi, 1921.
Children's fashion, Germany, 1925.

Run into besides [edit]

Cosmetics in the 1920s
Roaring Twenties
Flapper
Interwar period

Notes [edit]

^ ^a ^b ^c ^d Marsha West. Fashion Trends of the Twenties. July i, 2008.
^ ^a ^b ^c Fashion in the 1920s (Overview). Pop Civilisation Universe: Icons, Idols, Ideas. ABC-CLIO, 2011. Retrieved December 24, 2012.
^ Mary Louise Roberts, "Samson and Delilah revisited: the politics of women'southward way in 1920s France". American Historical Review 98.3 (1993): 657-684.
^ Steven Zdatny, "The Boyish Look and the Liberated Woman: The Politics and Aesthetics of Women'southward Hairstyles." Fashion Theory i.four (1997): 367-397.
^ ^a ^b Carol Nolan. "Ladies Fashions of the 1920s". Retrieved December 24, 2012.
^ "Faddy past the Decade". Vogue.
^ Simon Elation, "'L'intelligence de la parure': Notes on Jewelry Wearing in the 1920s." Fashion Theory twenty.1 (2016): v-26.
^ "1920s Jewellery Style and Inspiration". Winterson.
^ "A history of jewellery". Victoria and Albert.
^ Sancaktar, Asli. "An Analysis of Shoe Within the Context of Social History of Manner" (PDF).
^ ^a ^b Langley, Susan (2005-09-28). Roaring '20s Fashions: Jazz. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing. ISBN9780764323195.
^ Hannel, Susan L. (2005). "4 The Influence of American Jazz on Fashion". Twentieth-Century American Fashion. Dress, Body, Culture. doi:10.2752/9781847882837/tcaf0008. ISBN9781847882837.
^ Hannel, Susan L. (2002). The Africana craze in the Jazz Age : a comparison of French and American way, 1920-1940 / (Thesis). ^{[ permanent dead link ]}
^ "Textile, Americana Print: Rhapsody, 1925". Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Pattern Museum . Retrieved 2017-10-09 .
^ Thornton, Zita (2011). Manner for a Jazz Historic period. Chicago, IL: Lightner Publishing Corp. p. 39.
^ "Back to Beauty". The Spirella Mag. May 1928. p. 72.
^ ^a ^b ^c Bob Batchelor. "Fashion in the 1920s". American Popular: Popular Civilisation Decade by Decade, Volume 1: 1900–1929. Greenwood Press, 2009. pp. 292-302.
^ Vermont, Jens Hilke, University of. "Women's Clothing - 1920s - Clothing - Dating - Mural Change Plan". www.uvm.edu . Retrieved 2016-11-xv .
^ "History of Womens Style - 1920 to 1929 | Glamourdaze". glamourdaze.com . Retrieved 2016-11-15 .
^ "What Did Women & Men Article of clothing in the 1920s?". VintageDancer.com. 2013-06-21. Retrieved 2016-xi-15 .
^ "1920s Men'southward Fashion From Peaky Blinders To Gatsby". The Costume Rag. 2019-12-13. Retrieved 2019-12-17 .
^ ^a ^b ^c "1920 Children's Manner Facts". LoveToKnow . Retrieved 2016-10-17 .

Farther reading [edit]

Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen'due south Dresses and Their Construction C.1860–1940, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 0-89676-027-8
Black, J. Anderson, and Madge Garland, A History of Fashion, New York, Morrow, 1975
Boucher, François: 20,000 Years of Fashion, Harry Abrams, 1966.
Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979.
Nunn, Joan: Fashion in Costume, 1200–2000, second edition, A & C Black (Publishers) Ltd; Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000. (Excerpts online at The Victorian Spider web)
Russell, Douglas A. " Costume History and Manner" Stanford University, 1983.
Steele, Valerie: Paris Way: A Cultural History, Oxford Academy Press, 1988, ISBN 0-19-504465-7
Steele, Valerie: The Corset, Yale University Press, 2001
The Spirella Magazine; MAY 1928
Children'south mode of the 1920s

External links [edit]

1920s Fashion Plates of men, women, and children'southward fashion from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries
Photographs from the 1920s taken by photographer, Henry Walker at the Academy of Houston Digital Library
"1920s - 20th Century Fashion Cartoon and Illustration". Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories. Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on 2011-01-08. Retrieved 2011-04-03 .